PDA

View Full Version : L150 cone cleaning



Cliff A.
09-19-2006, 05:10 AM
I've got my L150s re foamed last week and they sound like new. One of the white cones has some slight dark finger marks on it. Does anyone have any idea how to clean these cones, or would it be too risky because of their age? I tried a small clean bristle brush but it didn't do the job.

Cliff A.

tom1356
09-19-2006, 09:44 AM
I've got my L150s re foamed last week and they sound like new. One of the white cones has some slight dark finger marks on it. Does anyone have any idea how to clean these cones, or would it be too risky because of their age? I tried a small clean bristle brush but it didn't do the job.

Cliff A.
Try rubbing it gently with fresh sliced white bread.;)
The bread will crumble away as you rub.

louped garouv
09-19-2006, 11:13 AM
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=4275&page=2&highlight=white+cone+cleaning

the pics are gone, and i think this method was more for "lost causes"

but anywho....

Cliff A.
09-21-2006, 05:37 AM
Thanks guys. Maybe someone could tell me about the Aquaplas coating - like how thick it is and if it will rub off easily, or can it be rubbed with a damp sponge for example. I'd hate to wash it off and mess up big time.

Don C
09-21-2006, 08:57 AM
In my experience, the aqualpas is tough enough to withstand cleaning with a damp sponge. I have done this many times.

Wagner
09-20-2009, 11:40 AM
I know this thread is ancient, but...........
I just removed the old surrounds from my new LE14As yesterday.
The original owner was a HEAVY smoker as reported in my other thread.
One of the cones was almost brown, in a stippled, mottled weird sort of way.
I'd already cheaped out (read: I'm broke) on having someone that knows what they are doing do the re-edge so having them professionally "whitened" was pretty much out of the question.
One woofer was acceptable, the other, hideous.
So, lots of clean cotton balls and denatured alcohol is what I tried this go round.
Moisten the ball with the alcohol and make a gentle pass.
Turn the damp ball to a clean spot and pass again.
You will see the offending grime start to adhere to the ball.
Keep moving; it's tempting to want to scrub, DON'T.
Just do it gently.
Very, very little of the mineral flecks will come off on the ball, but some will.
This mineral like material is evident to varying degrees from cone to cone.
When the cone is damp with alcohol, black may peak through and you say "oh shit", but don't fret, just stop on that spot. It will return to normal as the alcohol dries.
I have figured out that the Aquaplas is not 100% consistent in thickness on every spot on every cone.
Removed LOTS of dirt and old cigarette smoke scum.
Old age and this grime has left the drivers a bit "off white" but that is permanent due to the water based nature of Aquaplas.
Only fix (besides a new cone:bouncy:) would be painting or coating which I wanted to avoid.
Denatured alcohol will also remove the brownish glue pigment and MEK creep from around the edges where the Lansaloy once stood.
Again, rub GENTLY and let the solvent loosen the grime and stains.
Once you are happy that you've removed the brunt of things, wet a clean ball and make a 360 degree wipe. Repeat until you've covered the entire cone. This will even out the patina and make the cone appear consistent versus "doctored" after all the alcohol evaporates.
This technique made these drivers look very presentable. Try it on one of your lost causes, you may be pleasantly surprised with the results.

Regards,
Thomas