XPL200 Rehab

[Titanium Dome]

By now everyone knows about the XPL200s I got for $360. They had been advertised on craigslist, the Recyclcer, and eBay for months, starting at $1150 and eventually going through two bidless auctions on eBay at $499.

They were a basket case: rotted foam, crushed 095Ti, destroyed grilles, filthy, filthy cabinets, missing pieces, etc.

Over time, I'll try to show the progress as they come back to life. My goal is to have a very nice pair for a total investment of under $600.

So first, out came many of the drivers for testing and repair. The 2214Hs went for a more thorough testing and refoam to Don Ramon's shop.

Here's one of the nearly bare cabinets.

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The cabinet veneer has been through a lot, but as part of my under $600 program, it cannot be replaced, so I'll do what I can for it. It's bone dry and much abused. Here are some representative views.

A top:

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One of the top edges:

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Junk on the side:

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The most exciting part is the bubbling of the veneer. In this bottom-lit shot, the shadows tell the story. This stuff is lifted in many places.

This was almost the deal breaker for me, when I saw these large patches of loose veneer.

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My two favorite tools for this kind of work are an Olfa® knife and some 3M blue painter's tape. Here the first bubble has been prepped for surgery.

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Using some kind of straight edge as a guide is a must. This has to be one cut, in a straight line, in the direction of the grain. A freehand cut is an invitation to disaster.

I make the cut in the middle of the tape strip so the veneer is protected on both sides of the incision, plus I have a "sterile field" around the opening.

(Yes, there's some dirt under my thumbnail. Also, it's a bitch trying to get a picture of some of this stuff. I need another hand!)

[Titanium Dome]

I like to whittle off the tips of waterproof matches to make my insertion tools. The paraffin makes for easier insertion and clean up.

Sometimes a thin blade or even the tip of an Olfa® knife is needed to get started. Careful! No tearing please.

The blade goes in:

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The custom wooden shims go in.

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A third matchstick whittled as a tiny paddle helps with getting the glue into the opening. On some of the larger bubbles, I'll use a plastic paddle that comes with hair color products to mix components together. It'll slide right under the surface and has a range of an inch or more.

Again, camera in one hand, trying to demonstrate with the other while taking the picture. You do the math... :o:

The tape does its job protecting the veneered surface from my ministrations.

[Titanium Dome]

Once the shims have been pulled, then reinserted under the other side and the glue applied under that side, the seam is pressed down, the excess glue is removed from the tape surface, and the tape itself is removed.

Do not leave the tape on any longer than necessary, and for heaven's sake don't use regular masking take, duct tape, or anything other than the blue easy release tape. Even at that, the blue tape will remove a small bit of the surface color of the wood, but in this case where I'll be redoing the surface anyway, that's okay.

Once the tape's off, then cover the (former) bubble with a thick, partial cotton fiber, white, paper towel; get out the iron, set it on stun...oh, I mean 1 or 2, and press the wood gently as you speed set the glue. Pressing too hard is a no-no; you'll compress the grain in the area you're ironing.

If the white paper towel starts to turn yellow or brown, your iron is too hot.

Also, I shouldn't have to say this, but make sure there's no water in the iron and don't use the steam settings even if the water's been taken out. Otherwise :bash: :banghead:

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The finished product. Tight, flat, and smooth with a hint of a tattoo from the tape. No glue stain anywhere.

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Here's the finished product. Well, not finished finished, just bubble removal finished. You know what I mean.

For comparison, check out how it looked when I started.

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The gouges, nicks, and chips get some stainable filler. I use the 150 Fine Grit sanding pad to smooth everything and to clean it up before restaining.

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While waiting for the wood putty to set up and the wood cleaner to remove the darker stains, it's time to take stock of the drivers.

Here we see the 095Ti and 046Ti getting ready for a check up.

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First, the 095Ti gets a goose.

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Then it's time for the 046Ti. Bend over, turn your head, and cough. ;)

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The 2214Hs showing their back sides. Roll over boys, and let's see the goods.

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New foam exposed. The 2214H refoams @ $30 each were quite a bargain, and the job was good. Centering seems perfect, and the obvious sag that was there with the tired, old foams is long gone. They're spry and springy now.

[Steve Gonzales]

Good show Ti Dome. Is that Zebrawood?. Lovely grain to it. There is a lacquer based putty under the name FAMOWOOD, it is my choice for this type of application, as it is made from small particles of real wood. It dries fast and stains up very nice. Please try WATCO over this sanded and patched surface too. Before you apply the stain of any kind, use an artist's 0.05mm pen to draw/faux the grain in too. This particular grain is an easy match due to the grain pattern. I'd go a little darker tone than original too,l as this hides a multitude of sins better. Thank you for sharing the tips. As you know, I've done a few of these restorations myself and I know just how much extra effort it is to compose,picture and describe. Sometimes it took longer to post than to do the actual job!. I love this kind of stuff, there is something about restoring the original surface of a JBL that makes it all the more satisfying. I'll keep an eye on this thread as I'm sure that you will produce a fantastic result. Let me know if I can help you out with anything, I'd love the chance, Regards, Steve G

[northwood]

:applaud:
It's the most beautiful JBL to me

[Anthony L100]

Great stuff TiD, it's good to see this sort of "budget" job detailed so nicely, sometimes you don't want to spend $$$$. I can't wait to see them finished, and especially to hear how they sound:D :D.

[Titanium Dome]

Originally these cabinets had the dark black finish, but over the years, they faded badly. They appear never to have had any care whatsoever in 15 years.

Sunlight, smoke, dust, and dirt really took their toll. Most of the original black was gone, either bleached out or dried out. The original color is sill somewhat visible near the top where it got deeper into the open pores or at the bottom where the fading was less and the oils tended to migrate as the wood dried out.

While it looks a lot worse in person than in this photo, the saving grace is that the general condition of the wood is sound. It won't be perfect, but it'll look good enough. I'll use an ebony stain, slightly diluted as a wash. Some of the wood is so dry and faded, it might require a second application.

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Using a special paper/cotton cloth and a latex glove, I hand rubbed the stain into the wood, with the grain of course. The wood, while dry, was a little resistant to the stain, as the cells were hard and closed after years of neglect. Eventually the stain and the hand rubbing opened them up.

Merely brushing the stain on would have left the stain on the surface and the result would be most of the stain would come back off when wiped down.

After sitting over night, the worst areas of the wood look like they need some additional attention. Overall, though, the effect is very close to the original, perhaps a bit more transparent.

Here's the stained cabinet next to its unstained mate. though it's hard to tell, it looks much better than its mate. After some serious drying time, then out comes the Watco. Then it'll shine.

(In the background, l-r: L7, L7, PS1400 in box, L250, Soundcraftsmen A200 and A400 amps, FAP T1 pre/pro, FA CSS220 sub w/ LE120H-1, SVA2100, L7, SVA2100, L250, L3, XPL160, and SVA1800 w/ orange cable on it.)

[JBLnsince1959]

Good work Dome...keep us posted......

by the way..,,wasn't one of the mid-ranges flatten?? got a pix of that?

[glen]

Really nice record of your work!
Thanks Dome!

[Wardsweb]

Very nicely done. I love taking neglected pieces like that and bringing them back to life. A real sense of accomplishment and instant gratification. :applaud: :cheers:

[Regis]

Great thread and pics Ti Dome, the bubbling veneer repair was really nifty. Though I was expecting the use of a hypodermic (maybe the consistency of the glue wouldn't allow it), the match stick applicator seemed to work well and your repairs came out beautifully!

Thanks for saving these rare and endangered JBL speakers!:D

[Titanium Dome]

Great thread and pics Ti Dome, the bubbling veneer repair was really nifty. Though I was expecting the use of a hypodermic (maybe the consistency of the glue wouldn't allow it), the match stick applicator seemed to work well and your repairs came out beautifully!

Thanks for saving these rare and endangered JBL speakers!:D

Working my way through grad school with a wife and three kids, I had to work for a decorating company that did lots of high end work in professional offices and "significant" historical restorations. I became a wallpapering, staining, faux finishing, lacquering, gilting whizz. For example, I learned how to paint correct shadows on Gothic columns to give them the right architectural appearance in cathedrals so they'd always look like the light was emanating from the Altar or from Christ's face.

Anyway, we'd often use syringes for wallpaper repair or for fabric restoration, but not usually for veneer. You're right, the adhesive would be too thick and too bulky. Plus, you don't want to get too much glue under the veneer; it'll create its own bubble, and somehow with a needle, you just want to keep pushing the plunger. Once that dries, you're screwed.

It is fun to do this. It's something I can do based on skills that I have, just like the guys that have the skills to do the electronics stuff can so happily work away while I stand around scratching my head.

Since I flubbed up by not cataloging the work I did on the L250s, this is a way to make up for that oversight.

[Titanium Dome]

If you want to find the original finish on an old, neglected piece of wood, look for an area that had some cover. In this case, the edge of the hole around the rear ports provides the clues.

Reducing the file size and resolution to fit here lessens the visual impact, but the finish underneath was really dark. In fact, the faded tops of the enclosures were a completely different color altogether. The lower portions of the side panels retained the most of the original black finish.

This picture really doesn't do it justice, but here it is anyway.

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Here is the same area after it's been stained. Looks a lot better.

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Steve Gonzales is the master of this technique, but here I've put some grain into the putty before staining.

Since this is at the top of the cabinet, you can see how much color the wood finish has lost. The top is completely faded and lifeless.

[Titanium Dome]

Good work Dome...keep us posted......

by the way..,,wasn't one of the mid-ranges flatten?? got a pix of that?


No, not me, but the Ti dome on one of the 095Ti 3" midrange drivers. It looks like someone pried the steel grille off the driver, scraped it against the dome, then poked it several times. I took the diaphragm out and manipulated it into a roughly dome-shaped driver again, but some of the dimples are deep and permanent.

The driver does work, but it's running below 4 OHMS (3.4 to be exact) while the undamaged 095Ti runs at 4.2 or so.

Luckily, the metal grille survived intact, but the O ring is long gone, so I'll have to find one to keep the metal grille in place.

[Titanium Dome]

I forgot to add:

Does not affect the sound.

Just in case I need to sell them later. :rotfl:

[Titanium Dome]

I found a source for an 8 OHM 095Ti diaphragm (NOS under $60), but the 4 OHM ones seem to be NLA/OOS.

For you technical guys, can the 8 OHM diaphragm be substituted for the 4 OHM? What are my options here?

TIA. :thmbsup:

[Guido]

Why not use the D4R093Ti? Shouldn't be such a problem.
Oh, replace them in pairs ;)

[DavidF]

The most exciting part is the bubbling of the veneer. In this bottom-lit shot, the shadows tell the story. This stuff is lifted in many places.

This was almost the deal breaker for me, when I saw these large patches of loose veneer.

How could this happen, I wonder. Were they parked too close to a radiator or some heat source? Anyway, a great job in getting that sorted out.

DavidF

[Earl K]

Hi,

I found a source for an 8 OHM 095Ti diaphragm (NOS under $60), but the 4 OHM ones seem to be NLA/OOS.

For you technical guys, can the 8 OHM diaphragm be substituted for the 4 OHM? What are my options here?

- You can't just substitute the 8 ohm part into a network designed for a nominal 4 ohm driver. You'll shift the crossover points for the 095 and most likely the sensitivity of the midrange area will also be wrong .

- Your options aren't that great. Here are some of them .

(1) Live with the "dimpled" 095ti. Only your eyes & ears will tell you if this is acceptable ( assuming you don't have the equipment to do distortion measurements )
(2) Buy a single replacement 4 ohm 095ti driver .
(3) Buy a replacement diaphragm that is the correct 4 ohm impedance . Perhaps, a 093 or a 095 will suffice . ( would be nice to see an impedance plot for a 095Ti )
(4) Install D4R093tTi diaphragms in pairs.
(5) Buy some 4 ohm, 030ti car units ( from eBay, currently shippied from Taiwan )
(6) Install a single 8 ohm 095ti diaphragm and rework the XPL200 crossover ( as best as can be achieved ).
(7) Install a two 8 ohm 095ti diaphragms and rework the XPL200 crossover for both boxes ( if doable ).


:)

[Earl K]

(6) Install a single 8 ohm 095ti diaphragm and rework the XPL200 crossover ( as best as can be achieved ).

- If this is the route you decide you must take then,

(1) Study Don C's thread about his measuring the voltage drives for both the XPL200 & XPL200a networks . This thread is located HERE ! (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2444) You'll need to be able to recreate these voltage drives so that you can compare your two different speakers. You may want to talk with Don about his approach. I think Don used 6 ohm dummy loads for all his drives. You could use that value or 8 ohm loads, as in the JBL Standard Test Fixture.
- What's important is the creation of a reliable visual reference for making comparisons between your modified and unmodified crossovers. ie; You'll want to get the voltage drive of the modified midrange section to match that of the unmodified crossover .

(2) Then read this other Don C thread on padding down the 093Ti. (http://audioheritage.csdco.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2367&highlight=XPL200) I've included this thread for reading because you might be forced to slightly pad down your speaker that has the "good" 095Ti . Don seemed to think the padding was desirable ( though that was for the 093Ti , I believe ) . I don't know if he actually implemented any of Giskards suggested mods for padding.

(3) An AC impedance plot for a 4 ohm 095Ti is highly desirable. You should make one or have someone do it for you. We need to know how it compares to the 093Ti.

(4) You'll need to normalize the 8ohm ( ? ) impedance of your 095Ti, down to around 5 ohms. I'm guessing that this is the impedance value needed as the load impedance for that part of the midrange circuit,( which is driver side of the fixed Lpad ). I've guessed at 5 ohms only because of the included impedance plot that Giskard produced quite some time ago ( for the 093Ti , not the 095Ti ). A 13.5 ohm resistor paralleled across an 8 ohm driver will give an approx. new value of 5 ohms. That assumes the AC impedance of your "8" ohm 095Ti is actually 8 ohms. It likely isn't / which again is why, for the sake of accuracy you need to get someone ( or yourself ) to run an AC impedance curve for the 8 ohm unit.

(5) It would also be really handy if you would make note of the stock R, C & L values for at least the midrange section of the 200s' network. I believe, no one has this network on paper .

(6) Working from the 200a network ( a dangerous presumption ), I calculate the working circuit impedance "amp side" of the fixed Lpad to be around 6 ohms. Meaning ; unless you need more padding in this circuit , a simple 1 ohm resistor placed in line , replacing resistors R10, R11, R12 & R13 should get you real close to a desired drop of around 5 to 6 db for the 095Ti . ( With these 2 new resistors, I've roughly calculated the total db drop in this midrange circuit to be now be between over 6 db . ) My calcs. could easily be wrong , plus they don't agree with some real voltage drop measurements which indicate about 5 db attenuation. This is one more reason why at this point you need to run new voltage drives with these two new resistor in place to see what the actual electrical attenuation is / and what the curves look like. After that is done , additional pad/ or circuit impedance correction can be done. Of course, if the 8 ohm 095Ti has a significantly different sensitivity figure from the 4 ohm unit, then pads will need to be adjusted to account for these acoustic differences ( the pads can always accomodate more attenuation if that's what's necessary )

????

<. EarlK

[boputnam]

Great job, Ti Dome. Thanks for making the effort to post the process. Lots of great experience showing through... :)

[Titanium Dome]

Hi,


- You can't just substitute the 8 ohm part into a network designed for a nominal 4 ohm driver. You'll shift the crossover points for the 095 and most likely the sensitivity of the midrange area will also be wrong .

- Your options aren't that great. Here are some of them .

(1) Live with the "dimpled" 095ti. Only your eyes & ears will tell you if this is acceptable ( assuming you don't have the equipment to do distortion measurements )
(2) Buy a single replacement 4 ohm 095ti driver .
(3) Buy a replacement diaphragm that is the correct 4 ohm impedance . Perhaps, a 093 or a 095 will suffice . ( would be nice to see an impedance plot for a 095Ti )
(4) Install D4R093tTi diaphragms in pairs.
(5) Buy some 4 ohm, 030ti car units ( from eBay, currently shippied from Taiwan )
(6) Install a single 8 ohm 095ti diaphragm and rework the XPL200 crossover ( as best as can be achieved ).
(7) Install a two 8 ohm 095ti diaphragms and rework the XPL200 crossover for both boxes ( if doable ).


:)

I tried option (1), and my eyes will not permit it. My ears may be bad enough that the sound would pass muster, but my eyes still have enough acuity to say "No way." The rest I will pursue, though I've checked out the T030s on ebay and elsewhere and have some feelers out.

The (6) and (7) options are a last resort for me, inasmuch as I remain an untalented goober when it comes to networks. :o:

I do have a lead on a 4 Ohm 095Ti diaprhagm, but I need to see a picture of it first.

[Titanium Dome]

After all the repairs, some gentle sanding, a final stain wash and touch up, sufficient drying time (48 hours) and a good wipe down, the two enclosures stand ready for the next step. I'm amazed at how well they turned out and at how exciting it is to see them looking like "new" again. They even smell "new." :yes:

The camera flash washes them out a bit and makes them look uneven, but they're turned out very uniform and dark.

[Titanium Dome]

I've been using Watco Finishing Oil for over 25 years, but never on a JBL before. Traditionally I've stuck with JBL's own recommended formula. These cabinets were the perfect candidates for the Watco treatment though, since they've been totally neglected and were in need of some real help.

Here's the can, ready to make its mark, so to speak.

[JuniorJBL]

Very nice job Dome!!:applaud: Thanks for sharing:bouncy:

[Titanium Dome]

Here's look at the top of the cabinet after three applications. The sides were fine after the customary two applications, but the tops were so dry that they soaked up the first two coats almost immediately.

Once again, the camera flash makes the picture less than ideal, but you can see the improvement. In fact, I'll include the original "before" shot of the same top for contrast.

[Titanium Dome]

I got a line on a NOS NIB 095Ti 4 Ohm diaphragm in Florida. According to the shopkeeper's recently arrived email, it may be "the last one in existance" (sic), so I've sent money via Paypal to get it while I can. This will be the simplest and best solution for me, though not necessarily the cheapest.

Here's hoping it's for real, that it gets sent, that it arrives safely, and that it's actually the 4 Ohm version. Then let's hope I don't FIU when I try to replace it. It's a very straightforward operation, so I anticipate no problems.

Fingers crossed...this would be effing sweet. :bouncy:

[Don C]

I've been wondering what the application for the 8 ohm version was. I don't know of anything that was produced that used it. Cascade?

[Robh3606]

Cascade?

That's a good quess with all those midrange drivers.

Rob:)

[Titanium Dome]

The cabinets are dry and impatience is setting in, so off comes the blue tape, down goes the pad, and the newly refurbished cabinets are ready for the drivers. At this point, cotton gloves are a must, as the veneer will be curing for at least another 48 hours. They're dry on the outside, but still soft underneath.

Here's a look at the crossover inside the cabinet through the woofer cut out. That's only a small part of the network--there's a lot of batting in there!

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The tweeter and midrange share the same chamber and the same baffle inset as seen here.

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Held in by wood screws (not bolts), here's the 046Ti with three screws started and one on its side for your observation.

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Both 046Ti tweeters are in place, as well as the 115H-1 midrange. (I didn't show or do much in this thread with the 115H-1 because frankly there's not much to talk about.)

It's getting exciting. :bouncy:

[Steve Gonzales]

Now this is exciting!:bouncy:

[Titanium Dome]

It's a bit of a pain putting the 2214H-1 woofers back in. Of course, they're heavy and unwieldy, but on top of that, the wire leads are short.

Apparently the Monster Cable was quite expensive, because JBL didn't put in any more length than it had to. :biting:

[Titanium Dome]

Both 2214H-1 woofers are securely in place. Just one driver to go.

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Saving the best for last, the 095Ti midranges go in. Of course, until I (hopefully) get the NOS diaphragm I ordered, the slightly crumpled one will have to do. Still, I can't wait for it; I have to put something in so I can listen at last! You understand, right? :blink: :confused:

[Titanium Dome]

Next the port tubes go back in.

Yes, I pushed it all the way in after the shot.

[Titanium Dome]

Finally, ready to rock, but first a striking pose for the adoring fan (me). Again, this is after dark in a variably lit room and with a flash camera, so the picture isn't stunning. Nevertheless, it does give an impression of the finished product. Perhaps tomorrow I can get a shot in natural light.

[Titanium Dome]

Things didn't start out too well, with the speakers seeming weak and lifeless. A quick check revealed no woofer response at all.

So I checked all the connections and confirmed that the bridging straps were not getting a good connection. I took some time to clean and retighten them.

Ah, it sounds better, but the bottom end is not what I expected. A quick check reveals one 2214H-1 is still not working. Grrr! :wtf:

More jacking around with the connections, a few gratuitous flips of the bi-amp/normal switch, and things are in order. Now both woofers are working, though a bit tightly. (New foam, you know.)

For a while I just let them run tones while I watch CSI. When I come back down, they sound ready to go.

Oh baby! Now I remember why I love Ti midranges so much. Stunning! Articulate! Agile! Musical! Breathtaking! The Ti tweeters are keepers, too. Precise! Timbral! Quick! Yes! :smsex: It's almost that good.

By this weekend they should be ready for serious work. Smells like a bake-off! :yes: Plenty of contestants: L7, L250, SVA1400, maybe I'll even drag down the PS. I smell fun! :bouncy:

[Wardsweb]

Again, absolutley fabulous work. Wish I could be there for your little speaker shoot out. Man oh man, those are saweet and something to be proud of.

[Regis]

It's a bit of a pain putting the 2214H-1 woofers back in. Of course, they're heavy and unwieldy :biting:

:blah: :blah: :blah:

Poor baby! I'll take those big heavy clunkers off've your hands!:D But seriously, that's one of my favorite 12" JBL drivers. They move a lot of air and they go pretty lo-o-ow!

[JBLnsince1959]

Dome

great job...I'm sure it's exciting.. here's something to try if you get the time or desire....

I was noticing that it looks like they used the same monster wire on all four speakers...

anyway, try rewiring the the tweeter and mid-range with Zilches' wires ( you know what I mean - and get the wires with the better insulation) and hear the difference.. of course do one speaker first and then compare..should be different.....

[edgewound]

Nice resuscitation, TiDome....nice cabinet restoration!:) :applaud:

[glen]

Man you do nice work Dome.

You mentioned "new speaker smell", home the cigarette smoker aroma is gone for good.

Those speakers should thank their lucky stars to have ended up in your capable hands.

Good save!

[Titanium Dome]

:blah: :blah: :blah:

Poor baby! I'll take those big heavy clunkers off've your hands!:D But seriously, that's one of my favorite 12" JBL drivers. They move a lot of air and they go pretty lo-o-ow!


Sorry, I'll have to hang on to them for now. :p

Once they've got some hours on them, I'll be running them side by side with the LE120H-1 woofers in the L7s to get some perspective. I'm sure the drivers will sound different; I just don't know how that difference will express itself.

Should be fun! :bouncy:

[Titanium Dome]

Dome

great job...I'm sure it's exciting.. here's something to try if you get the time or desire....

I was noticing that it looks like they used the same monster wire on all four speakers...

anyway, try rewiring the the tweeter and mid-range with Zilches' wires ( you know what I mean - and get the wires with the better insulation) and hear the difference.. of course do one speaker first and then compare..should be different.....

Yeah, that's worth a shot. Perhaps I'll give it a go once I become accustomed to the stock sound.

[Titanium Dome]

The grilles that came with these speakers are virtually worthless. Most of the mounting pegs are broken off, the cloth is snagged and torn, and they are broken in several places. Inasmuch as I really don't need to put grilles on them, I'm in no hurry to do anything about it, except, it seems like they should have grilles on when not in use.

If there's a pair of decent grilles available, I'd be surprised, yet it never hurts to ask. Any knowledge of grilles for XPL200s?

Also, there's a logo at the bottom of one speaker, but not the other, and my XPL160s have no logos at all. Anyone have a source?

Harman will put them on my wish list, but the price is high and the wait is uncertain.

[Steve Gonzales]

I'd love to see those grills, can you post a pic?. You've done a great job Ti Dome, a wonderful distraction from the feuding in other parts of the forum. Anyways, I assume the grill frames are made of that plastic composite stuff that the L100t's are made of?. What weave is the original?. As I recall, it is a very light weight cloth. Thank you again for sharing your resto. with us, well done Sir, Steve G. :applaud:

[Titanium Dome]

I'd love to see those grills, can you post a pic?. You've done a great job Ti Dome, a wonderful distraction from the feuding in other parts of the forum. Anyways, I assume the grill frames are made of that plastic composite stuff that the L100t's are made of?. What weave is the original?. As I recall, it is a very light weight cloth. Thank you again for sharing your resto. with us, well done Sir, Steve G. :applaud:

I had to do a little propping up (you'll see why later), but here are the grilles from the front. One obviously has some big problems. What you can't see well is the tearing on the left edge grille cloth of the grille on the left. :confused:

[Titanium Dome]

Here the many problems are abundantly revelaed. I Photoshopped orange dots at every point where the grille frames are broken or mounting pegs are missing.

[Titanium Dome]

Here the worst is revealed, or at least partially revealed. What doesn't show are all the missing vanes, connectors, and small stiffeners that are completely missing under the sagging cloth at the top.

[Steve Gonzales]

Those are almost as bad as the Altec 19 grills I am working on!. I've saved some before, but this looks like the mother of all restorations. I have actually 'sugically' removed pegs from other grills and epoxied them cleanly to another frame. I have also found that there is an epoxy called 'Plastic Fusion' that performs very well in these types of applications (Home Depot). Once the grill cloth is removed from the frame and it is epoxied back together, I use brad nails to act as 'rebar' to reinforce the new grafted pin by drilling a pilot hole carefully through both pieces while they are lined up. There is usually more of a 'pad' built into the frame where the pegs are placed to facilitate this. You could add small pieces of wood, plastic or metal across the breaks in the main frame to act as stiffeners also. This is also a very tedious process, but short of finding new grills, it is at least a glimmer of hope. Wish I lived closer.

BTW, You must keep the alignment spot on during the rebuild.

[northwood]

:applaud:
Maserati,nice car

[Titanium Dome]

:applaud:
Maserati,nice car

One of the first things I did was replace the speakers with JBL co-axial drivers with Ti dome tweeters. I put a JBL sub in the luggage compartment.

Now that I've got the 095Ti bug from the XPL200s, maybe I'll grab some of those JBL T030 drivers for it.

BTW, her name is Beatrice, as in Dante's La Divina Commedia, since she came from Italy, and she's my vision of perfection.

[JuniorJBL]

Hey Dome!!

Very nice work!!
I have done a lot of plastic repair and could repair your grilles. :D They would take some time but could be salvaged if you would like PM for details.:)

[Fangio]

Fantastic job TiDome, great pics showing the progress, and a pleasure to read. :applaud:
Exemplary, thanks for the effort.

[edgewound]

:applaud:
Maserati,nice car

Chrysler TC...body by Maserati. Lee Iacocca's vision inspired by the 1955, '56, '57 Ford Thunderbird.

[Titanium Dome]

Chrysler TC...body by Maserati. Lee Iacocca's vision inspired by the 1955, '56, '57 Ford Thunderbird.


Body and full Italian leather interior, if you please. ;) Thank heaven, it's a Chrysler Turbocharged drive train (w/ Maserati/Cosworth head). I can repair it myself with readily available parts.

[Titanium Dome]

Hey Dome!!

Very nice work!!
I have done a lot of plastic repair and could repair your grilles. :D They would take some time but could be salvaged if you would like PM for details.:)


I'll give Steve's "pin and glue" method a shot on the better of the two and see how that goes. If I'm out of my league, I'll be in touch. Thanks. :thmbsup:

[JuniorJBL]

This is one place to get a good plastic repair glue. http://www.plast-aid.com

One bottle is a powder the other is a catalyst. This works well for repairing. The other tool you can use is a plastic welder. Some of the better ones will do most plastics. A soldering iron will work too! It might be fairly easy for you to do yourself and I bet you have quite a few plastic suppliers in your area.

A dremel is a good tool to have to cut bulk plastic as well. If you want to give it a try.:D

[Titanium Dome]

Cathy at Speakerex comes through. This was on the stoop when I got home.

[Titanium Dome]

The box looks good, and it's got the right label on it. Excitement mounts!

[Titanium Dome]

Slit the tape, fold back the flaps, and look, a special message for me from JBL! :p

[Titanium Dome]

Ah, thank goodness, a new O-ring gasket. Maybe I'll take it to Home Depot or Lowe's to try to find a match before I install it. :hmm:

[Titanium Dome]

Ah, here is the mother lode, the treasure trove, the object of my desire!! :bouncy: All wrapped in a protective prophylactic (plastic bag).

[Titanium Dome]

Some mystery writing and secret codes lie within the dome's interior. What mystery of the ages might it reveal if only I could decipher them? :banana:

[Titanium Dome]

Excerpts from Kubla Khan by Samuel Taylor Coleridge:


In Xanadu did Kubla Khan
A stately pleasure-dome decree :


The shadow of the dome of pleasure
Floated midway on the waves ;
Where was heard the mingled measure
From the fountain and the caves.
It was a miracle of rare device,
A sunny pleasure-dome with caves of ice !
A damsel with a dulcimer
In a vision once I saw :
It was an Abyssinian maid,
And on her dulcimer she played,
Singing of Mount Abora.
Could I revive within me
Her symphony and song,
To such a deep delight 'twould win me,
That with music loud and long,
I would build that dome in air,
That sunny dome ! those caves of ice !
And all who heard should see them there,
And all should cry, Beware ! Beware !
His flashing eyes, his floating hair !
Weave a circle round him thrice,
And close your eyes with holy dread,
For he on honey-dew hath fed,
And drunk the milk of Paradise.

Look at it! It's so darn pretty. :smsex:

[Titanium Dome]

Installation and testing this weekend. Then it's time to truly rock!

:band:

And blast some dance tracks!

:dj-party:

[Steve Gonzales]

That almost looks like a nipple at the tip of that Dome in that shot;) . Nothing like replacing a dimpled, damaged dome with a perfect new one. I look forward to your listening tests.

[Titanium Dome]

That almost looks like a nipple at the tip of that Dome in that shot;) . Nothing like replacing a dimpled, damaged dome with a perfect new one. I look forward to your listening tests.


Gosh, you're right. That's an image I'll never get out of my mind now. ;)

If I remember, I'll get a shot of the damaged drive next to the new one before I install it.

[norealtalent]

Cathy at Speakerex comes through...

Well come on Dome, where's the pics of Cathy? That's what we're waiting to see!:D

[Don C]

Did it come with a foam ring for under the surround?

[Titanium Dome]

Did it come with a foam ring for under the surround?


No.

[Don C]

Here's one of my old 095Tis, showing the foam ring that I mentioned. I'm surprised that yours doesn't have it. Most of the foam is stuck to the magnet housing, but it's falling apart, and some is on the surround now. You can see that this one's dome is dented just like yours. I'd be interested if you could tell me where to get a couple of diaphragm kits like the one you have. Did you get the last one? I have replaced my midranges with 093 Tis, but I could use some spares for future use.

[Titanium Dome]

When I disassemble the old unit, I'll take a look see.

[Titanium Dome]

Is this guy from Missouri using your XPL200 avatar? Or is that a stock photo?

http://classifieds.mtbr.com/cgi-bin/classifieds/classifieds.pl?db=Audio&website=AudioReview&language=&session_key=&search_and_display_db_button=on&results_format=long&db_id=12538&query=retrieval

[Don C]

The markings on the dome suggest to me that the vendor marked it before shipping. They probably want to make sure that if they ever get a kit returned, it's the same one that they originally sent out. It's a shame the foam was not included. The fact that you got a 4 ohm kit when you originally thought it was going to be 8 ohms, is interesting. I'm wondering of the 8 ohm version was ever more than a typographical error. The picture with the blue background is from the brochure, here in the LH library.

[Regis]

Ti Dome,
Thanks again for all the great shots and commentary! I was looking at the cardboard box that your diaphragms came in and I was imagining myself rubbing my hands gleefully. Are we sick or what?

[toddrr]

Fantastic job on these speakers.
Thanks TiDome for
sharing your time and energy
with documentation and
photographs
of the
whole process. :)

[Titanium Dome]

That's right, it's Dome Day. First, out with the old, in with the new.

Per Don's inquiry, I checked for the foam ring. There it is, intact, on the magnet assembly, in P-fine shape. I'll be leaving well enough alone. It looks very sound and has plenty of resilience to the touch, so there's no point in doing anything like take it out to replace it with something I don't have.

The 095Ti housing is an interesting piece of work. :yes: I like it.

[Titanium Dome]

For two days I've been thinking about putting this diaphragm in, and for two days I've been imagining that I'll end up surrendering to the desire to touch this thing, and I'll dent it, then I'll panic and try to fix it, then I'll take that razor knife and slash and slash and slash :nutz: :die:

Here I've pretensioned the 12, 3, 6, and 9 bolts. Can't be too careful.

[Titanium Dome]

Now the driver is ready to install, but let's be sure it's ready to rumble. Perfect! Look at the needle deflection in the mirrored strip, not the needle itself, and it's a dead match for the other 095Ti.

[Titanium Dome]

Here the new diaphragm sits safely in the enclosure behind its protective screen. Safe! No touches! :applaud:

I was a good boy.

[Titanium Dome]

Many posts ago I wrote I'd try to get some natural light shots. Well, it's a bit funky in the sun shine dept. today, but I opened the garage door and moved the XPL200s out as far as I cared to. Didn't want the local boys to come over and start asking questions/scoping out the gear.

So, not perfect, but here you can see how the veneer looks. The warmth is lost in this shot, and the richness of the grain is hard to see. There's still a bit of glare from the patina.

[Titanium Dome]

One speaker, more or less in profile, finished for now, until I locate a badge and a grille (well, at least a badge, don't care so much about the grille). The light washes it out, but you get the picture. Now for the listening! :D

[Titanium Dome]

Purchase of mucked up XPL200 pair, as is: $360.
Refoam of 2214H-1 woofers: $60.
Glue, stain, sanding block, blue tape, Watco oil, filler: had it all except for stain: $5.
Purchase and shipping of 095Ti diaphragm: $82.

Total: $507.

Personal satisfaction: Priceless.


Below: Ti Dome and four Ti Domes! Sweet!

[jbl4ever]

Nice job Ti:applaud: Enough them for a 5.1 system:bouncy:

[QwertyAccess]

you know, now that you mention of touching them, it does make me want to touch those domes.... >_<, they must be very easy to ruin :P, i noticed u took off the protectives on the domes on that shot,

[Regis]

Allright! They look beautiful! I want to hear your impressions of how they stack up, for sure. Can't have too many JBL's now, can we? :D We have three pairs at the house (the 4310's are at the girlfriends). If I could, I'd have even more! That you can indulge and enjoy JBL-maximus sounds good to me! The bad part is, that I haven't met a pair of JBL's that I haven't liked yet....

[Titanium Dome]

you know, now that you mention of touching them, it does make me want to touch those domes.... >_<, they must be very easy to ruin :P, i noticed u took off the protectives on the domes on that shot,

Actually, the screens are on all four Ti domes. I guess the light obliterated them. The screens must stay on for the safety of the domes! :eek:

[Robh3606]

Those came out really nice! Very nice selection in the back as well. Do you rotate them in and out of your set-up??

Rob:)

[northwood]

perfect job:applaud:
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=14717&stc=1&d=1144536043
nice ti

[sa660]

Well done, I am jealous of you spare time for doing all this well done again:applaud:

[Titanium Dome]

Here's a little bump for old time's sake.

Soon you'll see the XPL200s along with some other JBLs in my new JBL two-channel shrine, soon to be completed.

[VSN]

After many months of being an outsider, I have finally become part of the LH forum and this is my first post, so go easy on me guys....

I am building a set of XPL200A clones, and I need a few measurements in order to 'get it right'. Hopefully Pasadena, Ti Dome or some other member would be willing to take a few moments with a tape measure or point me to a post I overlooked.

Set Back Distance of Upper Baffle from Lower Baffle?

Center point of 115H-1 from floor?

Center point of 093Ti from floor?

Port Diameter and length?

Thanks so much for your help,
Vintage Stereo Nut

[sourceoneaudio]

Very nice indeed. Great job Mr. Dome. :applaud:

I like the picture shot with the big brother over the shoulder lurking in the background. That is a classic image all in its self.

[Titanium Dome]

I finally got around to setting up the DX-1 that Greg Timbers built for me a couple of months ago to use with these rehab XPL200s.

From a previous home theater system, I had a Citation 5.0 AV pre/pro sitting in its box. For some reason I just couldn't part with it. Happily, it came to mind that it would be a sweet stereo preamp for the DX-1 and XPL200 with its Jim Fosgate designed analog stages and incredibly low analog noise floor. The DX-1 and the Citation 5.0 get along just fine.

I connected the DX-1 to a pair of Hafler SR2300 amps, which as the name implies run each channel at 300W @ 8 Ohms. Since these are pro amps, they have impedance switches and individual gain knobs for each channel. I decided to use one amp for LF for both speakers and one amp for HF for both. Not surprisingly, I used the gain knobs on the HF amp to dial back the gain a bit, as the HF just doesn't need as much to drive it. With the signal lights on the amps and an SPL meter, I was able to get both HF and LF set to identical levels.

As an aside, these Hafler amps are the latest (and last) of the vaunted Hafler line. As reported in another thread:

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?11795-New-Hafler-Amplifiers&highlight=Hafler+amps%2C+MOSFET%2C+JFET+SR2300

I bought them from the factory after Rockford Fosgate decided to close down Hafler and Fosgate Audionics. They're the trans•ana design with JFET front ends and MOSFET outputs. I love the clean, strong, full-bandwith power they deliver.

Now, as for the XPL200s--amazing! The DX-1 and the cards GT built have given them a whole new life. Previously I was not too fond of the 2214H, but I have a whole new appreciation for it now. It now has the ability to pound with the best of them, and with the DX-! and the Hafler's ample power, it has moved into unheard territory. I honestly did not think it would improve this much.

I've always admired the 095Ti, but with the DX-1 and the power from the Hafler, it's an even more impressive driver. Along with the 046Ti, it produces some of the finest sound I've heard from direct radiators. The danger is that I'l burn out my ears listening to them. They're so effortless and clean in this Citation 5.0/DX-1/Hafler SR2300 chain that they get absurdly loud with no hint of clipping or distortion.

Realistically, this wonderful combo still does not eclipse either my full Performance Series multi-channel system or the Synthesis® One Array, but it has launched the XPL200 to another level of performance.

Thanks to Johnaec (RIP) and pasadena for their past contributions to the XPL legacy and again to Greg Timbers for taking the time to build the cards and for digging the last unsold unit out of his closet for me. I deeply appreciate this and will treasure this system for a long time to come. Now I am doubly glad I saved these abused, "basket case" XPL200s from the pawn shop and took the time to restore the cabinets and rebuild the drivers.

Thanks also to Techbot for posting the XPL200 system info.

Now, if I could only find some grilles and maybe some stands...

...a little :help: :D

[Titanium Dome]

I'm getting confused as to what I should post where, so here's a (requested) shot of the DX-1, Citation 5.0, Hafler SR2300s, and one XPL200. I'll post a close up or two of the equipment stack in the Hafler thread.

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?11795-New-Hafler-Amplifiers&p=290204&viewfull=1#post290204

In this shot the top two Haflers are running the XPL200s. The top unit handles HF and the middle unit handles LF. The HF amp has its gain knobs a few dB lower to equalize the output.

EDIT: Oops! Nix that last comment. We had house guests, and it looks like one of the kids was fiddling with the gain knobs. I've since rebalanced the output. :(

[pasadena]

Hey Ti,

Excellent to see you've gotten the DX-1 working with your XPL200's and I love the pick of haflers giving the XPL's a great workout.

The DX-1 does truly take the XPLs to the next level and until you have experienced this, you're missing out on an awesome experience.

I will never have a collection of speakers as you will and have not had the opportunity to own or listen to a lot of speakers but I ended up with the XPL200's after first starting out with a pair of Cerwin Vega concert monitors, which I still have and use for parties out the back yard, to may last pair prior to my XPLs being B&W 801 Matrix Series 3's. I have listened to B&W's 802D's run by a pair of McIntosh 1200 monoblocks which were something but I still stick by my DX-1/XPL200 combo run by a pair of Pass Labs XA100 Monoblocks kindly built for me and greatly appreciated by Ian Mackenzie for HF and NAD 208THX for LF. The sound IS truly amazing and it's as if having the singer and the band in your lounge, literally.

When I first listened to the XPL200A's, they were a lot brighter to listen than my B&W 801's but the detail in the XPL's were uncanny and spine tingling. The DX-1 added amazing clarity but introduced some harshness in the top end, which after a long journey, was subdued by a combination of the right power, speaker and interconnect cables, as well as amps and receivers as well as modification to the DX-1. For me, the processor made the biggest difference when I switched to a Meridian 568.2mm, absolute night and day difference between anything I've heard or tested. I also found that most if not all pre-out sections on home theatre receivers were absolutely garbage so it really does come down to picking the right combination for your ears as well as setup, which is also governed by how many money trees you have hidden in the back yard. :blink: I have since gotten rid of my Meridian 568.2mm as it blew my 046Ti-1 drivers on both speakers but was luckily enough to get help from here and source a pair from Japan.

As with yourself Ti, I will be keeping my beloved DX-1 forever and I'm happy that I have MTX200 stands to go with the XPL's. I was truly sad when I departed with my two previous DX-1's a few years ago, which I sold to a chap in Hong Kong who was going to run them balanced for his Everest DD6600's. Here's a pic he sent me of his setup. Some basement job:

46534


I attach herewith some pictures of my playroom. My h-fi combo consists of mainly Mark Levinson gears:
pre-amp: No. 32
power-amps: No. 33H mono block 150w (for HP), No 33 mono block 300w (for LP)
CD-player: No. 31.5
DAC: No. 30.6
speaker: JBL DD66000
electronic crossover: FM Acoustics FM236

So, I missed my DX-1 and I just so happened to pickup the second last brand new DX-1 in existence from Greg. I am eternally grateful to you GT. :D

Ti, I'll have to keep an eye out on a pair of MTX200 stands for you. Funnily enough, I've seen a pair of MTX stands for the 140's and 160's go here in Australia some months back but not the 200's. I guess I must have been lucky because I haven't seen a pair sold since I bought mine about 4 years ago.

Unfortunately, my setup is in mothballs (DX-1, Pass XA100 monos and NAD 208THX all packed/sealed and put away) as I explained to Ti, as the Pass monoblocks require more space than I can afford to run them, otherwise they'll overheat and cook, which they have once already so I'm not prepared to go down that path again until we move house, which I hope, fingers crossed, will be in the next 6 - 9 months and I get a large theatre/music room to play with.

Over the past few years, I have been on a parts collection drive and so far, the additional parts I have collected for my XPL-200A's are: a pair of 115H-1's, a pair of 093Ti's and a pair of NXPL200A crossover notwork boards. So, if something pops or fizzes out, I have something to replace them with. I'm in the hunt for a pair of 046Ti-1's and a pair 2214H-1's to complete my parts list.

VSN (Vintage Stereo Nut) - with regards to your measurements, I have stands on mine but I have measured all the drivers from centre to the bottom of the speaker as best as I can measure with pirate eye (just kidding). Hope this helps.

046Ti-1 888mm
093Ti 767mm
115H-1 530mm
2214H-1 260mm

Note: The lip to the bottom of the speaker actually slants upwards from the floor by about 3 - 4 mm, so you will need to add this to the above measurements.

Port Diameter is 75mm and length is 103mm.

Set Back Distance of Upper Baffle from Lower Baffle is 26mm.

Hope this helps.

Keep up the great work everyone and keep this thread and the XPL-200's going. Great stuff. :applaud:Thanks to everyone here for all your help in the past. This is such a great place with a wealth of information for everyone to share and enjoy.

Cheers
Pasadena

P.S It's been a long while since I've been on these forums or contributed to any posts as I've had some health issues I've had to deal and it's not because I've ignored this forum, I just needed some time out but I hope to be more of a regular in the future. :)

[Titanium Dome]

I had the opportunity to help out a forum member by doing a little experiment with the XPL200As in stock bridged form, in separate passive bi-amp form, and of course in full active bi-amp using a DX-1.

Wow! :eek: What an object lesson!

Going from standard stereo format to active bi-amping was naturally quite an eye and ear opener when I did it earlier this year. Nonetheless, going back from hearing these marvels in active bi-amp to regular stereo amplification with the bridging switch back in normal mode was an even bigger wake up call. HOLY COW! (RIP Harry Carey) Are these the same speakers? What happened to that amazing sound?

So Brett, wherever you are, good luck active bi-amping these. There are no doubt more educated people than I in the art of crossover design who can help you get close to the perfection of the DX-1. :yes:

[VSN]

While the XPL200 by-pass switch does remove the power robbing inductor from the woofer circuit along with the caps, the upper drivers are still using the passive network when driven by the DX-1.

A fully active system is the next step if one really wants to explore the possibilities!:blink:

Many have complained the 093Ti as being over bearing; I claim the 2214H & 115H simply just can’t keep up……..

My experiments with a fully active system without ANY passive elements have taught me if you put in the extra time & work, the rewards are well worth the effort!

Happy Holidays,
VSN

[4313B]

One could use LEAP to come up with an active solution for the passive network voltage drive.

[Titanium Dome]

While the XPL200 by-pass switch does remove the power robbing inductor from the woofer circuit along with the caps, the upper drivers are still using the passive network when driven by the DX-1.

A fully active system is the next step if one really wants to explore the possibilities!:blink:

Many have complained the 093Ti as being over bearing; I claim the 2214H & 115H simply just can’t keep up……..

My experiments with a fully active system without ANY passive elements have taught me if you put in the extra time & work, the rewards are well worth the effort!

Happy Holidays,
VSN


Or get lucky and have Greg Timbers build the XPL200A cards for the DX-1 and call it a day. :bouncy:

(Yes, I know a few guys who can do what's proposed, but I'm not one of them at my current level of commitment. I just want to listen to music while someone else who's experienced and knowledgeable does most of the work. :yes: )

[Titanium Dome]

One could use LEAP to come up with an active solution for the passive network voltage drive.

Careful. Someone is going to ask you to do the modeling, then design the schematic, then...

Oh heck, you know.

Hasn't that already been done here somewhere? :dont-know:

[pasadena]

I actually purchased a spare pair of crossover networks for the 200's for the purpose of redesigning/modifying them at the time I was testing the DX-1's and looking at ways of improving the signal path from the speakers to the DX-1. The crossover boards are very well jam packed and hard to get into/pull apart and wasn't about to start destroying the boards in the process.

Some improvements to the 200 crossovers would be to replace the wiring and capacitors for a start but I would be interested in a project where the internal crossover can be completely bypassed for a true active setup. Another project :p

Cheers

[Robh3606]

Anyone have any real good photo's of the LF DX-1 card?? I need to build up a LF card but I want to make a PCB and need good photo's for the art work. Beter yet anybody have a spare LF card?? Can't hurt to ask:D

Rob:)

[grumpy]

Topside pics from Pasadena in old thread I reference in that other ongoing XPL-200 thread... Shows parts placement on general purpose card

[doodle6]

Just a small suggestion from my years of cabinet making and custom veneering. A really useful approach to re-gluing veneer that is lifting is to slit the veneer, then use a small gauge hypodermic needle and syringe to inject what's known in cabinet making as "assembly" glue. It's a much thinner glue than the traditional white or yellow glues used in woodworking. It's used in dowel joints to avoid blow outs caused by pressing joints together so fast that the hydraulic pressure of the glue in the dowel bore can't escape fast enough. By using a much thinner glue, that sort of blowout can be avoided. This sort of glue is quite watery and a white color, so it looks sorta like whole milk. Then you can do a quick wipe down with water, apply wax paper or saran wrap or something similar to keep from gluing anything extra to the panel, and finally a sand bag for pressing the veneer down as the glue sets. If you prefer to use the thicker white glue, you can microwave it briefly and it will flow through a 22 or 18 gauge needle as well.

[thrasher187]

Can anyone get their hands on these still???? [email protected]

[gferrell]

Titanium Dome (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/member.php?606-Titanium-Dome) who started this thread years ago had a hard time finding them then. If you want to find one the come up for sale every once in a while on the bay. One was on there just recently. How bad did you hurt yours? If just a dent you may be able to hold it near a vacuum cleaner and suck it back out. Good luck